Mrs Chinaarkatakul's Amazing Noodle Shop

by Steve Rhodes

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The moment you partake of the first spoon full from the brimming bowl of chicken noodle soup presented to you by Mrs Rattana Chinaarkatakul, you realise that here, indeed, is a noodle soup with a difference.

Obviously many others agree as the shop, which is just opposite Chiangmai's five star Mae Ping Hotel, does a roaring trade from seven in the morning until the soup runs out, usually around eight o'clock at night.

So tasty is the soup that many of the Mae Ping's guests have been known to sneak across the street for breakfast, despite the lavish repast being served up at the hotel.

So what's the secret behind this delectable soup? A hint can be gleaned from the name of the dish: Kai Tun Coke. The last word is the give away, Coke, or more specifically, Coca-Cola.

One day a reporter from the "Bangkok Post" stopped off at Rattana's shop and ordered a bowl of noodles. Having eaten noodles all over Thailand, he was immediately struck by the difference and proceeded to interrogate Rattana in an attempt to discover the mystery ingredient lurking amongst the chillies, fish sauce, and other herbs and spices in the bowl. Normally cooks in Thailand are most reluctant to give out sensitive information such as this but, to his amazement, she was more than happy to share the secret with him, even giving him the recipe which appeared in all it's glory in the next day's edition.

A few days later people began arriving in droves. Back packers of all nationalities turned up clutching copies of the paper and clamouring for "chicken coke". They also showed their appreciation for the fine fare by jumping up at the end of the meal and writing accolades on the restaurant ceiling.

Glowing testimonials include those from the Mayor of Chiangmai to Taiwanese rock singer Theresa Peng who was a regular patron during her many gigs in Chiangmai. The big spending, big eating rock star would stay at the Mae Ping but dine at Rattana's, where she'd frequently put away up to three bowls at a sitting.

One night in late 1995 Theresa suffered a fatal asthma attack in her hotel room. Her death stunned her fans and the entire music world and triggered off a documentary on her life by a Japanese television network. They travelled to Chiangmai to interview people who'd had contact with her but became so intrigued by Mrs Rattana's noodles that they shot a feature story on her as well.

During the filming an interesting story emerged. Rattana told the camera team that she and her husband Teerayut, had once run a beef and noodle shop in Bangkok. The business was doing very badly and was teetering on the brink of bankruptcy. In desperation, the couple turned to a local deity, the Chinese Goddess Kwan Im, for advice.

They couldn't have sought help from a better source. Kwan Im forbids her followers to eat beef so she told the pair to quit the beef noodle business post haste, move to Chiangmai, and set up a chicken noodle shop. It was here that Rattana received the inspiration to add Coca Cola to the brew. Business boomed beyond their wildest dreams, and the rest is local history. Rattana puts their good fortune down to following the teachings of Kwan Im and the Lord Buddha who preached that the more you give, the more you get back. When the couple arrived in Chiangmai, their business was unique and they could have guarded their secret jealously. Instead they shared it generously with all who asked for it and yet their little noodle shop continues to thrive despite the host of imitators who have latched onto the recipe and set up rival businesses. In the process Rattana has become a television celebrity. When the documentary aired on Japanese television, it triggered off yet another wave of noodle buffs beating a pathway to the restaurant door which can be found at: 97 Kampangdin Road
T.Changklan, A. Muang, Chiangmai 50100. (Just across the road from the Mae Ping Hotel)

But if you can't make it to Thailand and have an overwhelming urge to indulge in the dish, here is the recipe straight from Rattana's own lips:

Chop up a chicken which, by the way, MUST be a black chicken. (A boiling hen is the best bet). Slowly stew it over night in a mixture of water, fish sauce and Coca Cola. No sugar, salt or the dreaded monosodium glutamate are added as the Cola provides all the essential flavours. Rattana throws in a few star anise but this is an optional extra, depending on one's personal preferences.

In the morning add cooked noodles of your own choice, bean sprouts, and a dash of freshly made dried chilli powder (this is made by dry roasting Thai chillies in a frying pan and then crushing them in a mortar and pestle), and you've got a breakfast fit for a king.

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